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When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.